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Jewelry Making

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The making of jewelry begins with a design, first on paper or using jewelry design software and then often on a wax plate. The designer must have practical experience on goldsmithing and a good knowledge of the peculiarities of gemstones.

Often he or she works up the design to the finished product but large firms may employ or commission specialists designers. Large retail jewelers may also have their own workshops. These and the individual workers produce the bulk of high-class jewelry. They may send out some of their work to specialists such as diamond setters. The setting of diamonds is an exacting task calling for special training and skill, for the setting have to be strong and yet not obtrusive. Quite a range of other specialists operate in the jewelry industry: casters, platers, setters, engravers in stone and metal, jobbing repairers, workers in ivory, mother-of-pearl and tortoiseshell, pearl threaders, and many others. Many jewelers can carry out repairs on their own premises and only have to send unusual work away for a specialist's attention. The replacement of gemstones lost from a setting is usually a task for a specialist, for few shops can carry the wide range of stones that may be needed.

Mechanization has effected only a part of these ancient crafts. Mechanical stamping and die casting has been in use for over 150 years, replacing some of the work that was formerly 'chased' by hand. Ultrasonic cleaning can remove dirt from crevices inaccessible to a brush (but it must be used with caution on stone-set jewelry).

A new design software allowed to increase productivity and ease the process of jewelry design. The software let you design virtual jewelry on-screen while generating a detailed color preview, produce high quality master models and production tooling. Here is a list of some of these programs:



However, the working jeweler still relies largely on his soldering blowpipe (which may be blown by compressed air instead of his lungs), on his files, gravers, punches, saws and drills, as did his ancestors for hundreds of years.

Cheap jewelry is mass produced by wholesale firms and their designers need to be conversant with the special casting methods used. Cheap jewelry is made out of large range of ready-made 'findings', that is, standard-sized settings such as ring shafts, ear clips, brooch fittings and cuff links that need only a minimum of adaptation or soldering to turn them into wearable jewelry.

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